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O modelo espanhol de certificações geográficas de qualidade alimentícia mostra sinais de esgotamento. Mudanças recentes questionam sua função como mecanismo para proteção das rendas territoriais, obrigando-nos a analisar as práticas dos atores da cadeia de valor sob novos enfoques. Nos concentramos na análise da denominação de origem protegida “León”, nosso objetivo é questionarmo-nos sobre os determinantes da geração de valor em uma economia pós-industrial. Constatamos a importância central de certas mediações entre a produção e o consumo, que sistematizam, conectam, interpretam e validam os conhecimentos locais. As mesmas, apresentam, um comportamento deficiente que incide negativamente na melhora da qualidade e da valorização dos vinhos.

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